Tour
the beauty and solitude of Dornoch
Forests
and heather-covered hills, sea cliffs and sandy beaches:
the east coast may not have the high drama of the west,
but it offers beauty, solitude and a wealth of history.
It takes the visitor from the ruined brochs of the Iron
Age people to the carved stones left by the mysterious Dark
Age Picts and on to the bitter memories of the Highland
Clearances and the desolation they caused.
Ardgay
Snug
setting where Dornoch Firth narrows and hills crowd onto
shoreline. Eitag Stone marks site of 19th-century cattle
market. Red deer and other species at Corvost rare animal
croft, 4 miles west.
Black
Rock Gorge
Precipitous
paths are perched 200ft above a narrow ravine carved by
waters of River Class, which snake through clefts little
more than loft wide. Glen Glass approached down track,
left of road from Evanton. A wooden bridge spans gorge
where river foams some 70ft below.
Brora
Thriving
golf and fishing resort, straddling mouth of river from
which it takes its name. Fine mountain and moor scenery;
sandy bays indent rocky coast. Pictish remains in surrounding
area. Beside road 5 miles north of Brora stands Wolf Stone,
said to be site of the shooting of Scotland's last wolf
about 1700.
Clach
a' Charridh
'Stone
of Sorrow', loft Pictish stone carved with cross and animals,
including stags, wolves and entwined serpents. Traditionally
it marks spot where unbaptized infants were buried, but
excavation has failed to find any trace.
Clynelish
Distillery
Visitors
who go on guided tours of Sutherland's only malt whisky
distillery are rewarded at the end with a distinctive
peaty dram.
Cromarty
Cromarty
Firth used during both world wars as Royal Navy harbour.
Gun emplacements guarding firth entrance still exist.
Birthplace cottage of Hugh Miller, area folklorist and
geologist, in Church Street, now in hands of National
Trust for Scotland.
Dornoch
Mellow
stone houses stand in broad, tree-lined streets. Cathedral
of 1224 was destroyed in 1570 and later restored, though
much ancient stonework remains. Safe bathing, golf on
a course that was in use in the 17th century, and tartan
weaving in what was once the local jail.
Duchary
Rock
High
cliff above Loch Brora, on which stands 2000-year-old
Iron Age hill-fort. Natural defences of rock and steep
slopes were improved by building a massive wall. Splendid
setting with magnificent views.
Dunrobin
Castle
Glowing,
white-stone chateau; once a grim 13th-century keep. Transformed
in 1840 by Sir Charles Barry, architect of the Houses
of Parliament. Gardens set out in formal French style
of Versailles. Early 20th-century steam fire engine on
display.
Edderton
Side
road leading north through village passes 10ft high Pictish
stone in middle of a field, inscribed with a fish symbol.
Beyond Edderton, tree-lined main road twists and turns,
skirting placid waters of Dornoch Firth. Local church
dates from 1793.
Evanton
Small
village of neat houses sheltering under massive hills.
Unusual monument on top of Cnoc Fyrish is replica of an
Indian gate; erected by General Sir Hector Munro, who
gained distinction at Relief of Negapatam in India, 1781.
Series of paths and lanes from Evanton lead down to muddy
foreshore; excellent place to watch sea birds and waders.
Fearn
Abbey
Founded
13th century, converted into parish church. Brahan Seer,
a 16th-century prophet, foretold that disaster would strike.
It came true in 1742, when lightning hit during service
and the roof fell in, killing 42 people. Nave and choir
restored, rest remains in ruins.
Golspie
Busy
holiday village with old private station for 3rd Duke
of Sutherland. Massive statue on summit of Beinn A Bhragaidh
mountain to ruthless 1st Duke, who evicted 15,000 tenants
between 1810 and 1820 to make way for more profitable
sheep.
Helmsdale
Fishing
village at mouth of River Helmsdale, claimed to be best
salmon river in Scotland. Ice house built 1840s to preserve
fish; Thomas Telford's stone bridge dates from 1812. Timespan
Heritage Centre and guided exploration tours.
Kildonan
Scene
of 1869 gold rush among magnificent hills and tumbling
streams. Prospectors may still find a little gold in their
pans.
Kilphedir
Iron
Age tower or broch with 32ft diameter enclosure within
walls 15ft thick. Around it are stone circles showing
sites of huts, and an eerie underground passage or earth
house. Outer enclosure protected by bank and ditches.
Lairg
Resort
and salmon-fishing village of neat stone houses on shores
of Loch Shin. In August streets fill with sheep for biggest
sale in Britain. Many ancient sites to be seen in surrounding
hills.
Loch
Fleet
Birdwatcher's
paradise. Separated from sea by narrow channel, it attracts
waders and ducks. Seals can often be spotted. Access to
pine woodland restricted.
Mound
Alderwoods
Thomas
Telford built the Mound embankment across River Fleet
to control the flow of sea water. In season, salmon queue
up waiting for sluices to open and allow them to continue
upstream. Woodland reserve grew up in estuary. Good viewpoint
from road.
Nigg
Village
church has 9th or 10th-century carved Pictish cross. In
churchyard is Cholera Stone, where according to legend
a cholera cloud' was buried after being caught in linen
bag during 1832 epidemic. Stone is never moved in case
plague escapes.
Portmahomack
Fishing
boats and yachts moor in harbour created by Thomas Telford
early in the 19th century. Sandy beach.
Shin
Falls
Spectacular
falls through rocky gorge famous for salmon leaping, as
they return to rivers to spawn. Car park nearby has display
about life cycle of the salmon.
Skelbo
Woods
Gaunt
ruins of 14th-century castle (not open to public) guard
Loch Fleet entrance. Network of trails from car park through
Forestry Commission plantation.
Spinningdale
Remains
of 1790 cotton mill, burnt down 1806. Ancient fort tops
Creich hill. Nearby lies Achulong barrow with passage
to roofed chamber, from New Stone Age.
Strath
Rory
Road
joining Cromarty Firth and Dornoch Firth crosses Strathrory
River in heart of wild moorland, with magnificent views.
Good walks from car park by bridge.
Tain
Ruined
chapel built on birthplace of 11th-century St Duthus to
house his remains, which were later moved to 1360 church.
The 17th-century tolbooth was administration centre for
infamous Highland Clearances, when ten-ants were thrown
off their land. Clan Ross centre is town museum.
