Loch
Tummel and Loch Rannoch are often referred to in the same
breath, but they are far from identical. Tummel is smaller
and less dramatic than Rannoch, yet incredibly beautiful
and entirely Highland.
Like Loch Rannoch, Tummel has a road on each side, the northern
much the faster to traverse, and more scenic in that it
rises higher and gives wider vistas, especially of Schiehallion
to the south-west. The famed Queen's View, which Victoria
made famous in 1866, tops a pine-crowned bluff high above
the water. But the quieter southern road has many pleasing
scenic vistas also. At its eastern end, where it threads
the wooded gorge of the lower River Tummel, it becomes quite
impressive indeed.
There are few settlements on the southern shore of the loch,
but at its west end is the small hamlet of Foss, where there
is an attractive church within an ancient graveyard, burial-place
of various old Stewart and Menzies families. The older ruined
church is tiny.
Tummel Bridge, above the head of the loch, is actually two
bridges. The ancient bridge built by General Wade in 1730,
now has a less hump-backed successor alongside, to carry
the road from Aberfeldy. Amongst those who have stayed in
this area include Mendelssohn and Swinburne.
East of the bridges is Dunalastair. This was the name of
the original estate, formerly the seat of the Struan Robertsons,
Chiefs of Clan Donnachaidh, or Duncan, descended from the
Celtic Mormaers of Atholl. Much excitement has occurred
here. Of all the clans, The Robertsons of Struan were amongst
the most loyal to the Stewarts.
The north road along the loch is dotted with the sites of
duns, forts and cairn circles. At the east end opens the
attractive, fertile, cul-de-sac valley of Glen Fincastle,
with a little church under a high-set dun, called Caisteal
Dubh, at its mouth. Fincastle House, a 17th century seat
of a branch of the Stewarts, with links to the 1745 rebellion,
sits high to the north. At the head of the glen, footpaths
lead off in numerous directions, including to the standing
stones of Clachan Aoraidh in the Allean Forest.
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