Tour
Huntingtower Castle in Perthshire, Scotland
Huntingtower
is a most interesting castle. The structure consists of
two separate tower houses, of a type common from the north
of England through the Borders up into Scotland, which were
subsequently joined together to form a larger residence.
The arrangement of rooms inside very much reflects this
unusual history, which tells its own story of the needs
of its former owners.
The site, outside the town, on the West side of Perth,
is naturally protected on the west by a narrow valley,
and on the north by a steep bank descending to the river.
The east and south sides are open and unprotected; no
evidence suggests defensive banks or ditches, but there
were probably formal gardens and orchards here during
its occupation.
The eastern tower is the earlier, with the fifteenth century
gatehouse having been enlarged to form the three storeys
and a garret in around 1500. The original arched entrance
to the passageway into the courtyard is still visible,
as is the spring of the vault on the inside. A mezzanine
wooden floor was constructed, but then replaced by the
existing stone barrel vault. On the first floor was the
solar, or main residential hall. The fireplace is from
a later remodelling, otherwise this room looks much as
it must have during the early part of the sixteenth century.
On the north side is a rectangular window, with seats,
and to the left of the fireplace, where a cupboard originally
was, another window now helps to provide light. The stunning
painted wooden ceiling of this room, dating from around
1540, was only revealed by the removal of later pine panelling
in 1913. Although sore on the neck, it is well worth spending
some time examining the various designs, from knotwork,
to botanical to zoomorphic. The remaining traces of painted
plaster in the room seem to date from even earlier; again,
time to trace out the features is well rewarded. The second
floor room has a fine early sixteenth century fireplace,
useful cupboards and shelves, again, seats at the window,
and a private latrine. The garret was reached by a door
in the west gable.
Around the same time as the eastern tower was being remodelled,
the western tower was constructed about 3m away. The extraordinarily
small distance between the towers is presumed to be a
result of the division of the land between two brothers,
William, the Master of Ruthven, and John. It seems that
each tower was used as a separate residence for their
respective families, but the proximity would provide extra
security and shared use of out buildings. The Western
tower is slightly larger than the East, with a projecting
chamber-block rising to four storeys. Again, the first
floor would have been the hall, but the floors in this
tower have not survived, and the features are mostly those
of the seventeenth century rebuilding, when the connecting
walls between the two towers was built. However, some
wall paintings from the original rooms survive - the remains
of a coat of arms, datable to pre-1513, as John Erskine
of Dun, whose arms appear on the right hand side, was
killed at the battle of Flodden in that year, and his
wife, Margaret of Ruthven, had remarried by 1518. The
garret on top of the West tower housed a dovecot, to provide
fresh meat for the families.
The builders of Ruthven, as it was known, were prominent
at court and Queen Mary came to stay here in 1565 with
her new husband, Lord Darnley. Darker times came and the
young James VI was 'persuaded' to stay at Ruthven for
almost a year from August 1582, while the Earl of Gowrie,
the former fourth Lord Ruthven, held the chief power in
the land. The King had his revenge however, as Gowrie
was beheaded at Stirling Castle on 2 May 1584. The castle
became part of the Crown properties, and in September
that same year, James VI stayed at Ruthven for the hunting,
fleeing from the plague in Perth after a week or so. Although
the castle and lands were restored to Gowrie's son James
in 1586, the family fortunes took another turn for the
worse, and the third Earl, James' brother John, and another
brother, Alexander, were killed in mysterious circumstances
in their town house in Perth in 1600. The King took his
full revenge on the Ruthven family, the brothers being
convicted of high treason despite the fact that they were
already dead, and the name of Ruthven was expunged from
the Book of Arms. He didn't stop there however, but ordered
the bodied to be hanged, drawn and quartered in public
view, and the heads and quarters were displayed in Edinburgh,
Perth, Dundee and Sterling. Ruthven castle became Huntingtower
Castle, and from the Crown's hands, passed in 1663 to
the Earl of Tullibardine. The property passed through
generations and families until the estate was sold to
various buyers in 1805. The castle itself was used by
John Buchan as accommodation for the workers at his nearby
cloth-printing factory. In 1912, it came into state care,
and it is now looked after by Historic Scotland.
Other
Places To Visit In this Area Include:
Alyth
Alyth
Folk Museum, open only in summer, has collection of agricultural
and domestic artefacts.
Baledgarno
Secluded
and unsignposted village built on private property. Houses
overlook village green split by rushing burn.
Barry
Hill
Remains
of Pictish fort on top of hill. Guinevere, King Arthur's
queen, is said to have been imprisoned here for loving Pictish
prince.
Birnam
Village,
dating from 19th century, on River Tay. Birnam Wood mostly
birch and oak. Terrace Walk along right bank of Tay passes
oak said to be last survivor of original Birnam Wood featured
in prophecy of Macbeth's death.
Blairgowrie
and Rattray
Scotland's
largest working water wheel on view at Keathbank Mill. Heraldic
crests centre here. Two towns linked by 19th-century bridge
over River Ericht. North of town, river rushes through 200ft
deep gorge overlooked by 17th-century Craighall.
Branklyn
Garden
Described
as finest 2 acres of private garden in country. Gardeners
from all over world come to see collection of plants including
rhododendrons, alpines, and herbaceous and peat-garden plants.
Bridge
of Cally
Peaceful
village in sheltered gorge at meeting place of River Ardle
and Black Water. Choice of walks through deciduous forests.
Camperdown
House and Country Park
European
brown bears, wolves, lynxes, arctic foxes, reindeer, raccoons
and golden eagles can be seen at wildlife centre. Other
activities include golf, horse riding, tennis and Adventure
Park. House has golf museum tracing sport's history.
Dundee
From
Law of Dundee, hill of volcanic rock in centre of town,
views of surrounding areas including docks. Iron Age hill-fort
and War Memorial here. McManus Galleries have displays of
history and art including Dutch, French, Italian and British
paintings, and oldest known astrolabe -- dating from 1555.
Barrack Street Museum has natural history exhibits. Steeple
of St Mary's Tower, dating from 16th century, now museum
of church and local history. Ruins of Mains of Fintry Castle
in Caird Park. Mills Observatory has displays on astrology
and space travel, and allows public to use telescopes. Traditional
methods of sweet making explained at Shaw's Sweet Factory-
Frigate Unicorn, oldest British-built ship still
afloat is now museum for Royal Navy. 11115 Discovery,
Captain Scott's ship, has displays of ship's history,
with actors reliving events on board. In suburb of Broughty
Ferry, 4 miles east of town, Broughty Castle houses museum
of whaling and local life.
Dunkeld
Ruined
cathedral dates from 12th century, 14th-century choir now
houses parish church. Cathedral and High Streets have restored
17th-century houses, one of which has metal ell, measurement
for cloth, on wall. Scottish Horse Museum has memorabilia
of one of Scotland's two Highland yeomanry regiments.
Dunsinane
Iron
Age hill-fort enclosed by strong rampart -- said to be site
of Macbeth's castle.
Eassie
Pictish
symbol stone in ruins of Eassie church. Cross and figures
carved on one side; elephant men and animals on other.
Fowlis
Easter
St
Marnock's Church dates from 1453 and has medieval painted
panels, bronze alms dish and bell dated 1508. Jougs -- iron
collars for tying up wrongdoers -- still hang from oak doors.
Nearby Fowlis Castle built early 17th century.
Glamis
Glamis
Castle, childhood home of Queen Mother and birthplace of
Princess Margaret, reputed to be most haunted stately home
in Britain. Six-storey tower built in 15th century, but
wings, turrets and castellated parapets added in the 17th
century. Collection of tapestries, paintings, furniture
and weapons. Parkland and formal garden laid out by Capability
Brown; also 2lft high sundial with 84 dials. Angus Folk
Museum in Kirkwynd has collection of furnishings, clothes
and tools used by local community over last 200 years housed
in 19th-century cottages. Glamis Stone nearby has intricate
carvings.
Glen
Clova
From
gentle, forested slopes around village of Clova, glen narrows
to wild mountain home of red deer, wildcat and ptarmigan.
Glen
Isla
River
Isla runs through picturesque valley for 17 miles. Loch
fishing, horse riding and cross-country skiing. Highland
Adventure Centre at Knockshannach, east of Kirkton of Glenisla.
Glen
Prosen
Roadside
cairn in memory of Captain Scott and Dr Wilson, who planned
their Antarctic exploration at Dr Wilson's home in the glen.
Walks through birch woods along glen.
The
Hermitage Woodland
Walk
leads through wooded area containing numerous exotic trees,
beneath 19th-century railway bridge, along River Braan,
past 18th-century bridge to folly over-looking waterfall.
Highland
Motor Heritage Centre
Classic
and vintage cars, costumes and accessories displayed in
authentic period settings.
Inchtuthil
Ramparts
and ditches of timber fortress built by Roman general Agricola
in AD 83.
Kindrogan
Three-storey
house is the start for Victorian walk which passes wooded
river bank where Queen Victoria once took tea, then 4 mile
climb up Kindrogan Hill where surrounding mountains are
indicated on circular map.
Kinnaird
Village
overlooking Carse of Gowrie, River Tay and Ochil Hills.
Kinnaird Castle dates from 12th century -- restored in 1855
and now private home.
Kirkton
of Glenisla
Ruined
Forter Castle stands 4 miles north-west of village. The
village itself is on River Isla.
Kirriemuir
Birthplace
of author and playwright J.M. Barrie, creator of Peter Pan.
His home now houses Bane Museum. On hill behind the graveyard
where Barrie is buried is cricket pavilion with camera obscura.
Views north towards highlands and south across Strathmore
Valley.
Loch
of Kinnordy
Freshwater
loch with large numbers of nesting water birds.
Loch
of the Lowes
Loch
is part of Scottish Wildlife Trust reserve. Hide allows
for viewing of water birds and pair of nesting ospreys.
Visitor centre has wildlife exhibition and several small
aquaria. Woods surrounding centre populated by roe and fallow
deer.
Megginch
Castle Gardens
The
grounds of this 15th-century castle have a physic garden,
16th-century rose garden, astrological garden and 1000-year-old
yews.
Meigle
Meigle
Museum contains 25 Pictish and early Christian carved stones,
found in churchyard.
Meikleour
Beech
hedge, 100ft high and 580yds long, forms eastern border
of Marquis of Lansdowne's home -- said to be largest hedge
of its kind in world.
Perth
Ancient
city, made Royal Burgh in 1210, though few old buildings
remain. St John's Kirk conse-crated in 1243, but now mainly
15th century. From here, John Knox preached his sermon on
idolatry that resulted in church wrecking throughout Scotland.
Restored mill from 18th century produces flour and oatmeal
in the traditional way. Fair Maid of Perth's House, once
home of Catherine Glover, heroine of Sir Walter Scott's
novel, now a craft shop. Black Watch Museum and Gallery
holds treasures of High-land regiments. Perth Art Gallery
and Museum has displays of local history, art, natural history
and archaeology. Whisky blending explained at Dewar's distillery.
Walk up Kinnoul Hill to folly at top, views of surrounding
area.
Pitcairngreen
Village
of 18th-century cottages and houses. North-east stands a
prehistoric burial mound.
Reekie
Linn
Impressive
waterfall where River Isla cascades into deep gorge.
Scone
Palace
Pink-stone
castellated mansion, enlarged in 1803 around 16th-century
and earlier buildings. Place where kings of Scotland were
crowned. Interior reveals china, ivories, clocks and exquisite
French furniture -- including Marie Antoinette's writing
table. Grounds include pinetum, wood-land garden, children's
play-ground and picnic area. Elaborately decorated chapel
on Moot Hill in front of palace.
Tealing
Well-preserved
example of Iron Age earth house, comprising pas-sage, long
gallery and small inner chambers. Close by is dovecote shaped
like house, built 1595.
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