Tour
the wild beauty of Glen Lyon
One
of the most famous, yet rarely visited glens in all of the
Highlands, Glen Lyon is also one of the longest- at least
for a mountain cul-de-sac as opposed to a long rift valley.
It opens from the Appin of Dull, at Fortingall, and extends
25 miles westwards, roughly parallel with Loch Tay to the
south. Just past Loch Lyon, it merges into a high pass which
leads to the head of Glen Orchy.
Throughout that long distance it winds in wild beauty amongst
ever more solitary peaks, and varies as much in character,
as in width and height. Indeed, its constant variety, between
gentle beauty and fierce grandeur, is part of the great
attraction of Glen Lyon.
West from the village of Fortingall, only a mile up the
glen, is MacGregor's Leap, where in 1565, the Chief of the
landless Greglach made an incredible leap across the river
chasm when pursued by Campbell Bloodhounds. Two miles further
up, there are a series of spectacular waterfalls, as the
Allt Da-gohb rushes down to the floor of the glen.
At the next hamlet, Innerwick, there is the 18th century
Glen Lyon Parish Church. But the hub of the glen is a little
farther on, at Bridge of Balgie. Here the road forks, one
branch turning south-westwards to climb steeply over the
shoulder of Ben Lawers to Loch Tay. The other road continues
up the glen, climbing to avoid the lands of Meggernie Castle,
a fine late 16th century structure, whitewashed and set
amidst ancient trees. It was built by Cailean Gorach, or
Mad Colin Campbell in 1580, who amongst other exploits abducted
the Countess of Erroll and held her there. Another lady
is said to haunt Meggernie. She was the wife of a Menzies
laird, who murdered her in a fit of jealously, and then
cut up her body into halves for better disposal. Perhaps
for the best, it her upper half which haunts the castle.
Three miles on, the Glen Lyon road passes Loch Cashlie where,
at the side of the road are a group of cairns and what appears
to be an ancient earth-house. As the head of the glen is
neared, or at least the road-end, the scenery becomes more
bleak and treeless. Beyond rear the mountains of, Ben Achallader
and Heasgarnich, and ranging to the south the fierce contours
of the Tarmachan mountains.
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