Tour
the Southern Inner Hebrides of Scotland
 This
Hebridean group includes Islay, Jura, Colonsay, Oronsay
and assorted rocky outcrops. The turbulent seas are popular
with experienced sailors, while walkers, swimmers and cyclists
are drawn to the hills, beaches and countryside. Golden
eagles, grey seals and goats are among the abundant wildlife,
and subtropical plants grow in the mild climate.
Ardlussa Cemetery
Mary
McCrain, said to have lived to 128, buried here. Male
ancestor reputed to have reached 180.
Beinn
Bheigeir
Island's
highest point at 1612ft. From Ardtalla at its foot, path
leads to McArthur's Head light-house on Sound of Islay.
Beinn
nan Gudairean
Old
road at rear of hotel leads to summit of hill and scattered
remains of fort. Views of Staffa, Lunge, Mull and peaks
of Ben Nevis, Ben Mor and Ben Lomond.
Bowmore
Council
offices, hospital, and fire station located in this harbour
village of stone-built houses and modern dwellings. Distillery,
established 1779, has excellent reception area. Kilarrow
Church built in 1767 is circular in shape.
Bridgend
Roads
to north, south and west of island meet here at head of
sandy sea loch. Viaduct nearby carries private road to
Islay House. Hill-top memorial to John F. Campbell, collector
of West Highland folk-lore. Trout fishing in five lochs,
sea angling from launches, wild-fowling and hind stalking.
Colonsay
Subtropical
plants and 150 species of birds flourish in naturalist's
paradise. Man first visited island in 7000 BC, and has
occupied it since the Middle Stone Age. Walking, fishing,
cycling and golf.
Corran
Sands
Silver
and while sands stretch for 3 1/2 miles beside Jura's
only road, which runs for 24 miles from Feolin Ferry to
Ardlussa.
Corryvreckan
Whirlpool
Ten-knot
tide race in channel between north lure and Scarba becomes
roaring maelstrom of white water. Has claimed many vessels
and lives. Best to view an hour or so after low tide.
Dun
Ghallain
Secret
cave hiding place of MacFie clan and remains of fort protected
by cliffs on two sides.
Dunyvaig
Castle
Ruined
fortress dating back to 14th century once belonged to
MacDonalds, Lords of the Isles.
Ellister
Bird Sanctuary
Thirty
species of ducks, swans and geese in scenic environment
near Port Charlotte.
Finlaggan
Castle
Ancient
seat and parliament of the Lord of the Isles, now ruins
on island in Loch Finlaggan. Visitor centre at Finlaggan
farm.
Grannie's
Rock
Rock
above Machir Bay sands has profile like old woman gazing
out to sea. Ruins of Dun Chroisprig, Iron Age broch, nearby.
Islay
Community
of 4000 yields £7000 a head annually to Exchequer, largely
thanks to whisky industry. Malt dried over local peat,
giving unique flavour. Wilder west coast gives way to
farms and boggy lowlands.
Jura
Red
deer outnumber 250 inhabitants by 20 to one. Standing
stones, Iron Age forts and cave-strewn cliffs. Inland,
woods give way to moorland heath and scree. One main road.
Jura
House Walled Garden
Subtropical
shrubs and flowers grow abundantly. Views from cliff top
and woodland walks.
Kilchattan
Remains
of medieval church, thought to be dedicated to St Calan,
within walled burial ground. Baptist chapel built 1879
near remains of chapel to St Mary.
Kilchiaran
Ruins
of St Ciaran's Chapel lie by track leading to bay. Oyster-catchers
and curlews to be seen.
Kildalton
Ruined
church with 8th-century carved Celtic cross, reached by
unclassified road through woods.
Kilnaughton
Bay
Unspoiled
golden sands 1 mile west of Port Ellen.
Kiloran
Bay
Beach
backed by sand dunes in which rabbits thrive. Safe surfing
in Atlantic rollers. Natural rock pool deep enough for
diving.
Kiloran
Gardens
Rhododendrons,
palms, mimosa, embothriums and eucalyptus flourish beside
native trees, bluebells and meconopsis.
Laggan
Bay
The
Big Strand, 5 miles of shell sand, stretches to Laggan
at northern end where river with salmon and trout flows
into sea.
Laphroaig
Distillery
Established
in 1815. One of several distilleries on island which produce
distinctively flavoured malts. Traditional melting floor.
Loch
Gruinart
A
main wintering ground for Arctic barnacle geese. In 1598
MacLeans of Duart lost clan battle against MacDonalds
of Islay, who pursued survivors to their refuge in Kilnave
Chapel and burned it. Only one MacLean escaped.
MacFie's
Stone
Clan
chief murdered herein 1623; many clan members visit site.
Two carved stones may indicate early Christian burial
ground.
The
Mill
Mill,
19th century -- built by Lord Colonsay -- now converted
to dwelling, but water wheel still in place. Building
behind mill said to have been carpenter's shop.
The
Oa
Peninsula
of lochs and caves, once used by illicit whisky distillers
end smugglers. Topped by Beinn Mhor, 658ft. Monument at
Mull of Oa to 650 U.S. servicemen who died when two troopships,
Tuscania and Otranto, sank off the headland nearby in
1918.
Oronsay
St
Columba said to have landed here on way to Iona in 6th
century. Long-horned, black-fleeced wild goats may be
descendants of animals from Armada ships wrecked in 1588.
Grey seals on rocky islets.
Oronsay
Priory
Ruins
of priory dating from 13th century contain 16th-century
Celtic cross and high altar. Stone slabs in graveyard
have carved portraits of warriors and saints,
Paps
Of Jura
Three
conical mountains, highest 2571ft, give views over 100
miles to Isle of Man and Outer Hebrides. Climbers should
take care, especially from August to february when deer
stalkers abound.
Port
Askaig
Ferry
port from mainland and connecting point for five-minute
ferry run to Jura. Post office, hotel, store and a lifeboat
station. Safe bathing.
Port
Charlotte
Principal
village of Rinns of Islay and prosperous farming area.
Village creamery takes island's entire milk output, producing
cheese sold on mainland and abroad. Museum of Islay Life
has displays of local history from prehistoric times.
Street names are written in Gaelic.
Port
Ellen
Chief
township built in mid-19th century and car ferry port.
Flanked by peat moor used in malt whisky industry. Pier,
post office, double-tower lighthouse. Sailing, swimming
and Machrie golf course nearby.
Portnahaven
Tiny
village and neighbouring Port Wemyss stand in treeless
area with dramatic cliff scenery and views to Ireland.
Village includes post office., store, school and two churches.
Offshore is Isle of Orsay lighthouse.
Riasg
Buidhe
Remains
of 19th-century homes, earlier chapel and burial ground.
Village abandoned in 1918. Inhabitants rebooted at Glassard,
near Scalasaig.
Saligo
Bay
Atlantic
rollers wash great sandy bay dominated by 400ft cliffs.
Behind is Loch Gorm, largest freshwater loch on island.
Scalasaig
Saithe
and mackerel can be caught from the pier -- arrival point
for Oban ferry. Seafarers use the 19th-century monument
to Lord Colonsay as a landmark when anchoring off pier
or at Queen's Bay.
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